Thank you for shopping with Saturn Shrimp & Aquascaping. We want to ensure you have the best experience building your underwater paradise. Because we specialize in both delicate live organisms and specialized equipment, please read our policy below regarding returns and refunds.
1. Live Stock & Aquatic Plants (Caridina Shrimp, Plants, etc.)
Due to the sensitive nature of live shrimp, fish, and aquatic plants, we cannot accept physical returns on these items. However, we do offer a Live Arrival Guarantee under the following strict conditions:
Dead on Arrival (DOA) Policy
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Timeframe: Any losses must be reported within 2 hours of the delivery time stamped by the courier, or within 2 hours of purchase if collected.
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Proof Required: You must send a clear photograph and video of the deceased livestock inside the original, unopened sealed bag to our official WhatsApp group or email.
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Resolution: Once verified, we will issue a store credit or replacement for the value of the lost livestock. Shipping/courier fees are non-refundable.
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Exclusions: We cannot guarantee survival once the livestock has been introduced to your aquarium, as water parameters, acclimation processes, and tank conditions are beyond our control.
2. Dry Goods & Hardware (Tanks, Substrates, Equipment)
For non-living items, we offer a 14-day return window from the date of purchase or delivery.
Conditions for a Return:
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The item must be completely unused, unopened, and in its original retail packaging.
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Sealed items (like bags of substrate or water treatments) must have their seals perfectly intact.
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You must provide a valid proof of purchase (receipt or invoice).
Non-Returnable Dry Goods:
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Used aquarium equipment (filters that have touched water, lights that have been installed).
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Partially used bags of substrate or soil.
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Gift cards or promotional items.
3. How to Process a Return
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Contact Us: Reach out via our official WhatsApp channel or email to initiate a return request for dry goods.
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Shipping: Customers are responsible for the courier costs of returning non-defective dry goods to our shop. Alternatively, items can be returned directly to the store during trading hours.
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Inspection: Once received, we will inspect the item. If it meets our return criteria, your refund or store credit will be processed.
4. Refunds & Store Credit
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Approved Returns: Once your return is inspected and approved, we will process your refund. You can choose between a direct electronic refund or store credit / voucher.
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Processing Time: Direct refunds may take 3 to 7 business days to reflect in your account, depending on the banking institution.
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Sale & Promotional Items: Only regular-priced items may be refunded. Items bought on holiday clearance or special promotions are eligible for store credit only.
Contact Us
If you have any questions about your order, parameters, or this policy, please reach out directly:
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Contact: 076 901 5010
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Email: sales@saturnshrimp.co.za
1. Livestock & Plants (The Living Stuff)
How do you safely ship live shrimp and plants?
We have perfected our live-shipping process to ensure your livestock arrives in perfect health.
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Shrimp: Shipped in specialized, heavy-duty bags or double-bagged with and a piece of mesh for the shrimp to hold onto during transit to reduce stress.
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Insulation: All livestock orders are packed inside thick, protective polystyrene boxes (styrofoam boxes) to buffer against outside temperature spikes or drops.
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Plants: Potted plants are sealed in a plastic bag to retain moisture and tissure culture cups are shipped in their sealed sterile tissue-culture cups to stay fresh.
What days of the week do you ship live orders?
To avoid courier delays over the weekend, we only ship livestock Monday through Wednesday.
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If you place a livestock order on a Thursday or Friday, it will be held securely in our systems and shipped first thing on Monday morning. This ensures your shrimp never get stuck sitting in a dark courier warehouse over a weekend. We do however ship locally on Thursdays to arrive Friday mornings (if available from the Courier Guy). Local same day shipping can also be selected at checkout (if available from the Courier Guy).
Do you ship livestock across South Africa?
Yes! We ship live shrimp and plants nationwide to major hubs. However, if you live in an extremely remote outlying area, please contact us on WhatsApp before ordering so we can verify if the transit time is safe for live animals.
2. Dry Goods & Hardware
How are tanks and heavy substrates shipped?
Fragile items like rimless glass tanks and heavy items are packed with extreme care using heavy-duty and reinforced boxes.
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Note: Because tanks, rocks and large soil bags carry high volumetric weight, shipping fees for these items are calculated dynamically at checkout based on total weight and size. Pudo delivery to your door is normally selected and maximum weight is 20kg per box. 1 Box is equal to 1 shipping fee.
Can I mix livestock and heavy dry goods in one order?
Yes, but they will likely be packed in separate boxes within the same shipment. We will never pack a heavy 9L bag of soil or a hardscape rock in the same box as delicate live shrimp bags to avoid crushing risks.
3. Shipping Rates, Times & Collections
How long does delivery take?
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Major Hubs (Johannesburg, Pretoria, Cape Town, Durban, etc.): Typically 1 to 2 business days from dispatch.
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Regional/Outlying Areas: 2 to 4 business days (Recommended for dry goods only; please chat with us first for livestock).
How much does shipping cost?
Shipping is calculated at checkout based on your delivery address and the total weight/volume of your parcel. Shipping rates are subject to change according to the Courier Guy policy and rates charged by the Courier Guy for areas. We do however attempt to keep shipping cost as low as possible and we can also communicate with you in this regard.
Can I choose to collect my order instead?
Absolutely! If you are local to Wierda Park / Centurion, simply select “Local Collection” at checkout. There is zero shipping fee. Once your order is packed and ready, we will send you a notification via SMS or WhatsApp to let you know it’s ready for pickup at the shop.
How do I track my order?
As soon as your parcel is handed over to our courier partner, you will receive an automated email and SMS/Whatsapp with your tracking number and a direct link to track its journey to your door.
We strictly recommend the drip acclimation method. Slowly drip water from your established aquarium into the transport container over a period of 1 to 2 hours until the volume triples. This prevents osmotic shock due to sudden changes in TDS or pH. Never dump the transport water directly into your tank.
We proudly stock premium, tissue-cultured, and potted aquatic plants from top-tier brands like Tropica, Dennerle, RTG and Stoffels. Tissue cultures (in vitro cups) are 100% safe for shrimp tanks as they are guaranteed free of pests, snails, and harmful pesticides.
Yes! We stock premium rimless glassware, including Dennerle tanks, alongside specialized hardscape, filters, and lighting systems built specifically for high-end aquascaping, fish keeping and shrimp breeding.
Where are you located and can I collect my order?
We are based in Wierda Park, South Africa. Local customers are more than welcome to select the collection option at checkout to pick up their orders directly from the shop.
What are your trading hours during public holidays?
While our regular hours vary, we are typically open from 10h00 to 15h00 on major South African public holidays (such as Freedom Day, International Workers Day, and Youth Day). Keep an eye on our WhatsApp group for specific holiday announcements!
How do I join the customer community group?
We run an exclusive Saturn Shrimp & Aquascaping WhatsApp group where we share first dibs on new stock arrivals (like rare plants and shrimp grades), tank troubleshooting advice, and quick community support. Follow this whatsapp link to join our update group: https://chat.whatsapp.com/GW0jhklSpZbH1nie5K8Tpv?s=cl&p=i&mlu=0&ilr=0!
How long should I cycle my tank before adding Neocaridina/Caridina shrimp?
Neocaridina shrimp are still sensitive to parameter swings so cycle time should be 3 – 4 weeks.
Caridina shrimp require mature, highly stable environments, we recommend a minimum cycling period of 4 to 6 weeks (30 – 40days).
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If you are using an active substrate like our Nature Soil, Dennerle Shrimp King or Tropica, it will initially leach ammonia to jump start your beneficial bacteria.
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Do not add your shrimp until ammonia and nitrites are consistently at 0 ppm, and nitrates are under 10 ppm. We highly recommend adding a starter bacteria culture and waiting until a healthy layer of biofilm has developed on your hardscape.
- Cycling with the correct water will also help the process along.
It depends on the species. Dwarf shrimp are small and can easily become a snack for larger fish.
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Safe tank mates: Small, peaceful nano fish like Otocinclus catfish, micro rasboras, or small tetras.
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The Rule of Thumb: If a shrimp can fit inside a fish’s mouth, the fish will eventually eat it. If you want to successfully breed and raise shrimp shrimplets (babies), a dedicated shrimp-only tank is always best.
Yes! Molting (shedding their exoskeleton) is how shrimp grow. Seeing empty, clear shells in your tank is a sign of healthy growth.
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Crucial Tip: Leave the empty shells in the tank. Shrimp will naturally eat them to reabsorb the vital calcium and minerals needed to build their next shell.
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Keeping you Gh above 3 and below 7 will help shrimp molt easily. Stressed shrimp from travelling or changing environments can molt frequently.
- Baby shrimp molt the most often and require plenty of biofilm and food.
Not necessarily, but it depends on the plant species. We categorize our Tropica,Dennerle and Stoffels plants into three easy tiers:
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Easy (Low Tech): No CO2 required. Plants like Anubias, Java Ferns, Cryptocorynes, and Mosses thrive under basic lighting and standard nutrients.
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Medium: Benefit greatly from low-dose CO2 and decent lighting (e.g., certain stem plants and hairgrass).
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Advanced (High Tech): High light and dedicated pressurized CO2 are mandatory to keep them alive and vibrant (e.g., lush foreground carpeting plants like HC Cuba or bright red stems like Alternanthera).
In summary, CO2 injection benefits all plants and creates a lush and vibrant ecosystem. Plant absorb CO2 as a food, which helps plant photosynthesize. This creates optimal growth.
Tissue-culture cups are grown in a sterile gel or liquid nutrient medium. Before planting, follow these steps:
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Carefully remove the plant mass from the cup.
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Gently rinse off the clear agar gel under lukewarm tap water. Most pots in modern development come with a liquid, just rinse this off.
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Divide the plant mass into smaller plugs or individual stems using aquascaping tweezers.
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Plant them directly into your substrate/attach to rock or wood for epiphytes.
In most cases, these are either Detritus Worms or Planaria, and it is crucial to know the difference:
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Detritus Worms: These are thin, wiggly, and completely harmless. They live in the soil and eat organic waste. If you see a lot of them, it usually means the tank is being overfed or needs a light gravel vacuuming.
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Planaria: These are flatworms with a distinct triangle-shaped head and two visible eyespots. Planaria are dangerous as they can hunt and kill dwarf shrimp and shrimplets. If you spot Planaria, let us know—we stock shrimp-safe treatments to eliminate them.
Setting up a successful aquarium is a highly rewarding process, but it requires patience and a basic understanding of water biology. Think of it less as keeping fish or shrimp, and more as managing a miniature ecosystem.
Here is a step-by-step overview of the absolute basics required to get a tank running successfully:
1. Choose the Right Tank & Equipment
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Tank Size: Larger tanks (e.g., 30 to 60 liters and up) are actually easier for beginners than tiny nano tanks. A larger volume of water dilutes toxins and stabilizes water temperature and chemistry much better. Rimless glassware, like a Dennerle tank, offers incredible clarity if you are focusing on aesthetics.
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Filtration: A good filter is non-negotiable. It clears debris, but more importantly, it houses the beneficial bacteria required to keep the water safe.
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Substrate: Choose a substrate that matches your goals. For heavy plant growth or delicate soft-water shrimp, an active buffering substrate like Nature Soil is ideal because it stabilizes the pH and provides plant nutrients. For basic setups, inert sand or gravel works perfectly.
2. Understand “The Nitrogen Cycle” (Crucial Step)
You cannot add livestock to a brand-new aquarium immediately. Tap water contains toxic ammonia from organic waste, which must be broken down by beneficial bacteria before animals can safely live in it. This biological seasoning process takes 4 to 6 weeks.
[Fish/Shrimp Waste & Rotting Material]
│
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[Toxic Ammonia]
│ (Eaten by Bacteria Tier 1)
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[Toxic Nitrites]
│ (Eaten by Bacteria Tier 2)
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[Safe-ish Nitrates] ───► [Removed via Water Changes or Plants]
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Step 1: Set up the tank with substrate, hardscape, water, and your filter running.
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Step 2: Introduce a source of ammonia (like a pinch of fish food or a commercial bacteria starter) to feed the initial colony of bacteria.
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Step 3: Use a water test kit to monitor parameters. You will see ammonia spike, then turn into nitrites, and finally turn into nitrates.
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Step 4: Once ammonia and nitrites sit at a consistent 0 ppm, your tank is officially “cycled” and safe for livestock.
3. Incorporate Live Plants
Live plants do heavy lifting in a successful aquarium. Brands like Tropica, Dennerle and Stoffels offer highly clean tissue-culture or potted plants that act as natural filters.
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Plants absorb harmful nitrates and carbon dioxide from the water.
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They pump vital oxygen back into the ecosystem.
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They outcompete algae for nutrients, keeping your glass clean, and they provide natural hiding spots and grazing surfaces for your livestock.
4. Acclimation & Stocking
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Stock Slowly: Never add your entire wishlist of fish or shrimp at once. Add a few at a time over several weeks so your beneficial bacteria have time to adapt to the increased waste load.
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Acclimate Carefully: Never dump new arrivals straight into the tank. Let the transport bag float in the tank water for 15–20 minutes to match the temperature, then slowly introduce small amounts of tank water into the bag over an hour (ideally using a drip method) so they don’t experience osmotic shock from sudden pH or mineral changes.
5. Routine Maintenance
A successful tank doesn’t require hours of daily work, but it does require consistency:
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Water Changes: Change 10% to 20% of the tank water every week or two. This removes built-up nitrates and replenishes vital trace minerals.
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Don’t Overfeed: Only feed what your animals can completely finish in a few hours. Leftover food sinks into the substrate, rots, and triggers massive ammonia spikes or sudden pest outbreaks.
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Filter Upkeep: When your filter slows down, gently rinse the sponges only in a bucket of removed tank water. Running them under chlorinated tap water will instantly kill your beneficial bacteria colony, crashing your cycle.
Many dwarf freshwater shrimp breed readily in captivity, however, success varies from species to species. Red cherry shrimp and certain other Neocaridina, for example, can quickly develop into large colonies with no assistance from the aquarist. Crystal and bee shrimp are a bit more difficult, while others, such as Amano shrimp are nearly impossible, as they require brackish water to breed successfully. Research should be done before any breeding is attempted.
1. Adding Livestock to a Brand-New Tank Immediately
The absolute most common mistake is buying a new tank, filling it with water, and adding fish or shrimp on the exact same day.
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The Reality: A tank needs time to grow a healthy colony of beneficial bacteria to handle animal waste.
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The Fix: Always run your tank through the Nitrogen Cycle for 4 to 6 weeks before introducing livestock. Skipping this process leads to sudden toxic ammonia spikes, often causing early losses.
2. Overfeeding
It is incredibly easy to overfeed fish and shrimp because they always seem hungry.
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The Reality: Leftover food doesn’t just disappear; it sinks into the substrate, decays, and severely degrades your water quality. It can also trigger massive explosions of pest snails or flatworms like Planaria.
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The Fix: Feed your animals small portions once a day or every other day, ensuring they finish everything within a few hours. Always remove any uneaten food using long tweezers or a gravel vacuum.
3. Washing Filter Media Under Tap Water
When a filter gets clogged, a natural instinct is to rinse it clean under the tap.
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The Reality: Municipal tap water contains chlorine and chloramines designed to kill bacteria. Rinsing your filter sponges under the tap instantly destroys the beneficial bacteria colony you spent weeks cycling. This “crashes” your ecosystem and sends ammonia levels soaring.
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The Fix: Always squeeze and rinse your filter media inside a bucket of water removed directly from your aquarium during a water change.
4. Burying Epiphytic Plants in the Soil
When buying beautiful live plants like Anubias or Java Ferns, beginners often bury their roots deep into the substrate just like a garden plant.
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The Reality: These specific plants are epiphytes. They possess a thick horizontal stem called a rhizome. If this rhizome is buried under soil or gravel, it suffocates, rots, and the plant eventually dies.
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The Fix: Keep the rhizome completely exposed. Instead of burying it, use a tiny drop of aquarium-safe superglue or thread to attach the plant directly onto driftwood or hardscape rocks.
5. Buying the Wrong Tank Size for Beginners
Many beginners start with a tiny 5-liter or 10-liter nano bowl, thinking a smaller tank equals less work.
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The Reality: Small volumes of water react rapidly to changes. A tiny mistake—like slightly overfeeding or a warm day—can cause water temperatures and chemical parameters to swing drastically, shocking your livestock.
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The Fix: Start with the largest tank your space and budget allow (ideally 30 to 60 liters or more). A larger volume of water dilutes toxins and stabilizes parameter fluctuations, giving you a much wider safety margin.
6. Blindly Trusting Water Appearance
A common misconception is that if the aquarium water looks crystal clear, it must be perfectly healthy.
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The Reality: Toxic compounds like ammonia and nitrites are completely invisible and odorless. Water can look immaculate while still being highly dangerous to sensitive species like Caridina shrimp.
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The Fix: Don’t guess—test. Keep a reliable liquid test kit handy to regularly monitor your pH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, ensuring your ecosystem stays perfectly balanced.
What is RO water:
Reverse Osmosis (RO) water is water that has been purified through a highly effective filtration process called reverse osmosis.
In simple terms, standard tap water is forced under pressure through a semi-permeable membrane with incredibly tiny pores. This membrane acts like a microscopic sieve, stripping away up to 95% to 99% of all dissolved solids, contaminants, and minerals—including chlorine, heavy metals, nitrates, hardness, and salts.
The result is nearly 100% pure, blank-slate water with a Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) reading close to 0 – 10 ppm.
Why it is Crucial for Shrimp Keeping & Aquascaping
For standard community aquariums, dechlorinated tap water is often perfectly fine. However, for specialized setups, RO water is a game-changer:
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Total Parameter Control: Because RO water contains zero minerals, it has a kH (carbonate hardness) and a gH (general hardness). This gives you a completely blank canvas. You can add specific remineralizers—like Shrimp King Minerals (GH/KH+ or GH+)—to lock in the exact, precise parameters your livestock needs without any interference from your local tap water chemistry.
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Essential for Caridina Shrimp: Delicate dwarf shrimp like Caridina (e.g., Crystal Reds, Taiwan Bees) are highly sensitive to fluctuating water chemistry and require a strict kH of 0–1. Using RO water paired with a buffering active substrate like Nature Soil/Shrimp King is the only reliable way to keep these parameters stable enough for them to molt and breed successfully.
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Algae Prevention: Tap water often contains high levels of silicates and nitrates, which act as fuel for nasty algae outbreaks. Using pure RO water for your water changes helps keep your aquascape pristine and clear.
- RO Mineralization: For our Caridina and Neocaridina lines we use Reverse Osmosis (RO) water, we strictly use and stock the globally trusted Shrimp King Minerals line to lock in perfect parameters. Gh+ for Caridina shrimp and GH/KH+ for Neocaridina shrimp. There are other brands that work too, we just trust and use Shrimp King personally.
⚠️ Important Note: You should never use pure, un-remineralized RO water directly in a shrimp tank. Because it lacks all essential minerals, it will cause osmotic shock and fatal molting failures. Always mix it with specialized aquarium minerals before adding it to your tank!
Selecting the correct size tank sets you up for success. We recommend anything from 15L and above. We like to keep and breed shrimp in a 40L – 80L aquarium.
Substrate choice is the next important item. Neocaridina thrive on a wide variety of parameters and most substrates work, we recommend the Dennerle range of gravels for Neocaridina. Caridina on the other hand need a buffering substrate, this will keep the pH of the aquarium low (5,5 – 6,8 pH). Make sure to ask which substrate suits your needs for the shrimp you are choosing.
Filter requirements range from sponge filters to canister filters. All work well and will create a stable environment for your shrimp.
Lighting and heater requirements depends on the shrimp and plants chosen. Plants can be more demanding with light as to shrimp. Easy to keep plants require low levels of lighting. We have a large selection on our site. A heater is required as shrimp and plants are Tropical (20 – 26 Degrees Celcius). We keep our tanks at 22 Degrees Celsius.
